海岸水域表面波动力学（波-流-海底相互作用） [Dynamics of Surface Waves in Coastal Waters] 下载 mobi epub pdf 电子书 2024

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内容简介

　　《海岸水域表面波动力学(波-流-海底相互作用)(英文)》内容简介：Wave motion is one of the broadest scientific subjects in nature， especiallywater waves in the near-shore region which present more richness andcomplexity of variability with respect to deep-water waves. Dynamicsof Surface Waves in Coastal Waters Wave-Current-Bottom Interactionsdevelops the typical basic theories （e.g. mild-slope equation and shore-crested waves） and applications of water wave propagation with an emphasison wave-current-bottom interactions and Hamiltonian systems. In recenttimes， the interest in water wave propagation has accelerated because ofrapid developments in global coastal ocean engineering.
　　This book lays a new foundation for coastal ocean engineering and includesnumerous theories and concepts （generalized wave actions in particular），making it beneficial to physical oceanographers and engineers. The bookhas detailed illustrations and stimulating examples showing how the theoryworks， and up-to-date techniques， all of which make it accessible to a widevariety of readers， especially senior undergraduate and graduate studentsin fluid mechanics， coastal and ocean engineering， physical oceanographyand applied mathematics.

内页插图

目录

1 Preliminaries
1.1 Water Wave Theories in Historical Perspective
1.1.1 The Mild-Slope Equations
1.1.2 The Boussinesq-Type Equations
1.2 The Governing Equations
1.3 Lagrangian Formulation
1.4 Hamiltonian Formulation
References
2 Weakly Nonlinear Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Bottoms
2.1 Modified Third-Order Evolution Equations of Liu and Dingemans
2.2 Fourth-Order Evolution Equations and Stability Analysis
2.3 Third-Order Evolution Equations for Wave-Current Interactions
References
3 Resonant Interactions Between Weakly Nonlinear Stokes Waves and Ambient Currents and Uneven Bottoms
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Governing Equations and WKBJ Perturbation Expansion
3.3 Subharmonic Resonance
3.4 Dynamical System
References
4 The Mild-Slope Equations
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Three-Dimensional Currents over Mildly Varying Topography
4.3 Two-Dimensional Currents over Rapidly Varying Topography
4.4 Three-Dimensional Currents over Rapidly Varying Topography
4.5 Two-Dimensional Currents over Generally Varying Topography
4.6 A Hierarchy for Two-Dimensional Currents over Generally Varying Topography
References
5 Linear Gravity Waves over Rigid, Porous Bottoms
5.1 Introduction
5.2 A Rapidly Varying Bottom
5.3 Generally Varying Bottom
References
6 Nonlinear Unified Equations over an Uneven Bottom
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Nonlinear Unified Equations
6.3 Explicit Special Cases
6.3.1 Generalized Nonlinear Shallow-Water Equations of Airy
6.3.2 Generalized Mild-Slope Equation
6.3.3 Stokes Wave Theory
6.3.4 Higher-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations
References
7 Generalized Mean-Flow Theory
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Governing Equations and Boundary Conditions
7.3 Averaged Equations of Motion
7.4 Generalized Wave Action Conservation Equation and Its Wave Actions
References
8 Hamiltonian Description of Stratified Wave-Current Interactions
8.1 Introduction
8.2 Two-Layer Wave-Current Interactions
8.3 n-Layer Pure Waves
8.4 n-Layer Wave-Current Interactions over Uneven Bottoms
References
9 Surface Capillary-Gravity Short-Crested Waves with a Current in Water of Finite Depth
9.1 Introduction
9.2 An Incomplete Match and Its Solution
9.3 Linear Capillary-Gravity Short-Crested Waves
9.3.1 System Formulation
9.3.2 Analytical Solutions and Kinematic and Dynamical Variables
9.3.3 Special Cases
9.4 Second-Order Capillary-Gravity Short-Crested Waves
9.5 Third-Order Gravity Short-Crested Waves
9.5.1 The System Equations and the Perturbation Method
9.5.2 Third-Order Solution
9.5.3 Special Cases
9.5.4 Short-Crested Wave Quantities
9.5.5 Short-Crested Wave Forces on Vertical Walls
9.6 Third-Order Pure Capillary-Gravity Short-Crested Waves
9.6.1 Formulation
9.6.2 Solution
9.6.3 Kinematical and Dynamical Variables
References
Appendices
A γ,μ and v in (2.1.4)
B ξ(3,1), φ3,1), A(3,2) ηj, τj, μj, λj and Vj in Chapter 2
C λ1 and λ2 in (2.3.44)
D μj in (3.3.22)
E I23, I33, I35,136 in Chapter 5
F Coefficients in (9.4.33) and (9.4.34)
G Coefficients in (9.5.136)-(9.5.138)
H Coefficients in (9.5.139) and (9.5.140)
Subject Index

精彩书摘

　　The third term can be called the bottom wave action, a positive compensation byincluding the effects of moving bottoms and describing a widespread dynamicprocess occurring on the nearshore bottoms （such as coastal evolution and sand-wave migrations）. The fourth term may be considered as the dissipation waveaction, transmitting a full scale effect of the dissipation arising from the originin the viscosity of fluid, determining its nonnegligible dissipative function of thecomplete equation system, and probably having a widespread value of applica-tion. Finally the fifth term vanishes identically [2]. Therefore it can be seen thatthese four kinds of wave actions on the left of equation （7.4.2） reach mutuallya more general form of integration with complement, compatibility and distinc-tion. Bretherton and Garrett [2] had shown the equivalence of equation （7.4.1）for many other types of wave motion in fluid dynamics, so that, （7.4.2） can beregarded as a valuable extension of （7.4.1）, giving rise to a generalized waveaction equation for the dissipative dynamical system in the nearshore region,which will play an important role in dealing with the process of real viscousflow.

前言/序言

　　Wave motion surrounds us——from the most secret， profound waves of quantummechanics to the grand waves of the ocean surface.
　　Ocean waves， or water waves， may be divided into deep- and shallow- water（coastal） waves. From an advance point of view， coastal waves are not studied asthoroughly as deep-water waves due to a complicated seabed topography on theformer but not on the latter. Therefore， in conjunction with the effects of ubiqui-tous ambient currents， wave-current-bottom interactions make up the most fun-damental， widespread dynamical mechanism in coastal waters manifesting itselfas refraction， diffraction， scattering， and resonant wave interactions involved inenergy exchanges.
　　Apparently， it is essential to obtain a full， clear explanation and descriptionof coastal waves for the development of broad offshore， coastal and harbor en-gineering， and also for having a better understanding of the evolutionary mech-anism of deep-water waves. In fact， a commanding view on long-term inves-tigating water waves is to wholly and uniformly treat and describe deep- andshallow-water waves， thus promoting the present rapid exploration and devel-opment of global oil and gas fields in deep waters of the oceans.
　　The aforementioned views， ideas， judgments， all that I have thought and doneover the last ten years， were compiled by me in this book. The book consists ofnine chapters and appendices from A to H， depicting the fundamental paradigmsof weakly nonlinear water waves.
海岸水域表面波动力学（波-流-海底相互作用） [Dynamics of Surface Waves in Coastal Waters] 下载 mobi epub pdf txt 电子书 格式

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