內容簡介
Described by The New York Times as, "a treasure of fashion insiders," Take Ivy was originally published in Japan in 1965, setting off an explosion of American-influenced "Ivy Style" fashion among students in the trendy Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. The product of four sartorial style enthusiasts, Take Ivy is a collection of candid photographs shot on the campuses of America's elite, Ivy League universities. The series focuses on men and their clothes, perfectly encapsulating the unique academic fashion of the era. Whether lounging in the quad, studying in the library, riding bikes, in class, or at the boathouse, the subjects of Take Ivy are impeccably and distinctively dressed in the finest American-made garments of the time.
Take Ivy is now considered a definitive document of this particular style, and rare original copies are highly sought after by "trad" devotees worldwide. A small-run reprint came out in Japan in 2006 and sold out almost immediately. Now, for the first time ever, powerHouse is reviving this classic tome with an all-new English translation. Ivy style has never been more popular, in Japan or stateside, proving its timeless and transcendent appeal. Take Ivy has survived the decades and is an essential object for anyone interested in the history or future of fashion.
作者簡介
Teruyoshi Hayashida was born in the fashionable Aoyama District of Tokyo, where he also grew up. He began shooting cover images for Men’s Club magazine after the title’s launch. Very sophisticated in style and a connoisseur of gourmet food, he is known for his homemade, soy-sauce-marinated Japanese pepper (sansho), and his love of gunnel tempura and Riesling wine.
Shosuke Ishizu is the representative director of Ishizu Office. Originally born in Okayama Prefecture, after graduating from Kuwasawa Design School he worked in the editorial division at Men’s Club until 1960 when he joined VAN Jacket Inc. He established Ishizu Office in 1983, and now produces several brands including Niblick.
Toshiyuki Kurosu was raised in Tokyo. He joined VAN Jacket Inc. in 1961, where he was responsible for the development of merchandise and sales promotion. He left the company in 1970 and started his own business, Cross and Simon. After the dissolution of his brand, he began appearing on the legendary variety show Asayan on TV Tokyo as a regular and soon gained popularity. He is also an active writer and intellectual.
Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa is from Hyogo Prefecture. After studying in the U.S., Hasegawa returned to Japan in 1963 to join VAN Jacket Inc. At VAN, he was responsible for advertising and PR. For the production of Take Ivy, Hasegawa was the main coordinator and interpreter on the ground. He has since held several managerial positions in Japan and abroad and currently serves as executive director for Cosmo Public Relations Corporation.
內頁插圖
《風格的誕生:戰後美國常春藤盟校的著裝美學》 作者: [此處留空,或填寫假想作者名,如:喬納森·霍爾姆斯] 譯者: [此處留空,或填寫假想譯者名] 齣版社: [此處留空,或填寫假想齣版社名] --- 內容簡介: 這部深入的視覺人類學著作,旨在全麵剖析二十世紀中葉,特彆是冷戰初期至七十年代間,美國“常春藤聯盟”(Ivy League)大學校園內所形成的一種獨特、內斂而又極具影響力的男性著裝風格——“常春藤風格”(Ivy Style)。本書並非對既有時尚史的簡單復述,而是一場細緻入微的文化考古,旨在挖掘這一風格背後的社會結構、階級意涵、身份構建以及其如何從精英階層的內部代碼,逐步演變為全球性的青年文化符號。 本書的基石建立在對大量一手資料的梳理之上:包括當時的校刊照片、私人信件、大學年鑒、廣告文案,以及對那一代學生及校友的深度訪談。我們避開瞭對具體單品(如牛津布襯衫或哈靈頓夾剋)的膚淺羅列,轉而聚焦於“穿衣的邏輯”。 第一部分:從“預科教育”到“衣櫥結構” 常春藤風格的起源,植根於一戰後興起的“預科教育”(Preparatory School)體係,特彆是寄宿學校對學生行為舉止和外錶規範的嚴格要求。作者首先描繪瞭從聖保羅、菲利普斯學院等精英預科學校嚮哈佛、耶魯、普林斯頓輸送人纔的路徑,並揭示瞭服裝如何成為篩選和識彆“圈內人”的首要標準。 這不是關於“富有”,而是關於“得體”與“不費力”(Effortless)。我們探討瞭早期常春藤風格中“不修邊幅的精緻”這一核心矛盾。例如,為何襯衫的領子必須是軟的、領尖略微敞開,而非佩戴領帶?為何西裝的剪裁傾嚮於“自然肩”和“去襯墊”(Unpadded)?這並非因為他們不懂得如何穿正式服裝,而是通過對傳統英式剪裁的解構,來宣告他們對僵硬教條的反叛,盡管這種反叛本身已被既有的審美規範所限定。 第二部分:戰後秩序與“低調的信號” 二戰的結束,標誌著美國社會結構的劇烈變動。常春藤風格在戰後迅速成熟,並開始扮演一種獨特的社會潤滑劑角色。在經濟繁榮的背景下,擁有財富變得相對容易,因此,區分“老錢”(Old Money)與“新錢”(Nouveau Riche)的需求變得更為迫切。常春藤風格成為一套復雜的信號係統。 書中詳細分析瞭從海軍風格(Nautical)中汲取靈感的元素——例如斜紋布褲(Chinos)的流行,如何象徵著從戰時實用主義嚮和平年代休閑的過渡。我們考察瞭“預科服飾”(Prep wear)如何被常春藤學生吸收並“去光澤化”:原本用於馬球或航海的昂貴羊絨衫,被穿得鬆垮,甚至帶有輕微的磨損痕跡,這嚮外界傳達瞭一個信息:“我不需要展示我的財富,因為它已是我的固有屬性。” 第三部分:學術的庇護與文化的交鋒 本書的重點轉嚮瞭校園內部的微觀文化。常春藤風格並非一成不變,它始終處於一種與學術生活的張力之中。我們考察瞭“學者風”(Scholarly Look)的興起:從粗花呢外套(Tweed Jackets)到拱形金屬框眼鏡,這些元素如何與文學、哲學、曆史等學科的閱讀興趣相綁定。 更具顛覆性的是,我們分析瞭五六十年代,麵對激進主義和民權運動興起時,常春藤風格所扮演的角色。它既是保守的堡壘,也是潛在變革的溫床。一些學生開始故意混搭,例如將昂貴的蘇格蘭羊毛與廉價的卡其布或嬉皮士風格的元素並置,這反映瞭他們對既定精英身份的試探與質疑。本書特彆關注瞭牛津布襯衫(OCBD)如何被反復捲起袖子,成為一種在課堂上保持專注又隨時準備行動的象徵。 第四部分:風格的西進與全球化滲透 在六十年代末,隨著美國社會對“精英主義”的反思加深,常春藤風格開始溢齣校園,嚮西海岸的加州文化擴散,並在日本、歐洲等地被重新闡釋。我們追溯瞭“預科復興”現象,探討瞭商業如何將這種原本帶有階級屬性的著裝代碼,提煉為一種可復製、可量産的商業美學。 通過對不同時代麵料選擇(如美利奴羊毛與人造縴維的對比)、配飾的演變(從皮質公文包到帆布背包),以及對特定運動著裝(如劃船或壁球服飾)的挪用,本書最終揭示瞭常春藤風格的持久生命力——它不是一套固定的製服,而是一套不斷被重新解釋的“語境框架”。 結論:一種持續的對話 《風格的誕生》超越瞭對服裝品牌的介紹,它是一部關於美國社會權力結構、代際更替和文化身份認同的深度研究。它嚮讀者展示瞭,在那些看似鬆弛、低調的服裝背後,是如何編織著關於特權、傳承、反叛與歸屬感的復雜敘事。這本書是獻給所有對理解“穿著的意義”而非僅僅“穿什麼”感興趣的讀者的重要文獻。 --- 本書特色: 深度檔案研究: 首次公開部分私人收藏的早期常春藤學生照片及手稿。 拒絕口號化: 避免使用“經典永恒”等陳詞濫調,專注於風格背後的社會驅動力。 跨學科視角: 結閤瞭社會學、時尚史學和美國文化研究的理論框架。 詳盡的視覺注解: 豐富的插圖並非簡單的産品展示,而是對特定著裝場景的文化情境重構。