内容简介
Described by The New York Times as, "a treasure of fashion insiders," Take Ivy was originally published in Japan in 1965, setting off an explosion of American-influenced "Ivy Style" fashion among students in the trendy Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. The product of four sartorial style enthusiasts, Take Ivy is a collection of candid photographs shot on the campuses of America's elite, Ivy League universities. The series focuses on men and their clothes, perfectly encapsulating the unique academic fashion of the era. Whether lounging in the quad, studying in the library, riding bikes, in class, or at the boathouse, the subjects of Take Ivy are impeccably and distinctively dressed in the finest American-made garments of the time.
Take Ivy is now considered a definitive document of this particular style, and rare original copies are highly sought after by "trad" devotees worldwide. A small-run reprint came out in Japan in 2006 and sold out almost immediately. Now, for the first time ever, powerHouse is reviving this classic tome with an all-new English translation. Ivy style has never been more popular, in Japan or stateside, proving its timeless and transcendent appeal. Take Ivy has survived the decades and is an essential object for anyone interested in the history or future of fashion.
作者简介
Teruyoshi Hayashida was born in the fashionable Aoyama District of Tokyo, where he also grew up. He began shooting cover images for Men’s Club magazine after the title’s launch. Very sophisticated in style and a connoisseur of gourmet food, he is known for his homemade, soy-sauce-marinated Japanese pepper (sansho), and his love of gunnel tempura and Riesling wine.
Shosuke Ishizu is the representative director of Ishizu Office. Originally born in Okayama Prefecture, after graduating from Kuwasawa Design School he worked in the editorial division at Men’s Club until 1960 when he joined VAN Jacket Inc. He established Ishizu Office in 1983, and now produces several brands including Niblick.
Toshiyuki Kurosu was raised in Tokyo. He joined VAN Jacket Inc. in 1961, where he was responsible for the development of merchandise and sales promotion. He left the company in 1970 and started his own business, Cross and Simon. After the dissolution of his brand, he began appearing on the legendary variety show Asayan on TV Tokyo as a regular and soon gained popularity. He is also an active writer and intellectual.
Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa is from Hyogo Prefecture. After studying in the U.S., Hasegawa returned to Japan in 1963 to join VAN Jacket Inc. At VAN, he was responsible for advertising and PR. For the production of Take Ivy, Hasegawa was the main coordinator and interpreter on the ground. He has since held several managerial positions in Japan and abroad and currently serves as executive director for Cosmo Public Relations Corporation.
内页插图
《风格的诞生:战后美国常春藤盟校的着装美学》 作者: [此处留空,或填写假想作者名,如:乔纳森·霍尔姆斯] 译者: [此处留空,或填写假想译者名] 出版社: [此处留空,或填写假想出版社名] --- 内容简介: 这部深入的视觉人类学著作,旨在全面剖析二十世纪中叶,特别是冷战初期至七十年代间,美国“常春藤联盟”(Ivy League)大学校园内所形成的一种独特、内敛而又极具影响力的男性着装风格——“常春藤风格”(Ivy Style)。本书并非对既有时尚史的简单复述,而是一场细致入微的文化考古,旨在挖掘这一风格背后的社会结构、阶级意涵、身份构建以及其如何从精英阶层的内部代码,逐步演变为全球性的青年文化符号。 本书的基石建立在对大量一手资料的梳理之上:包括当时的校刊照片、私人信件、大学年鉴、广告文案,以及对那一代学生及校友的深度访谈。我们避开了对具体单品(如牛津布衬衫或哈灵顿夹克)的肤浅罗列,转而聚焦于“穿衣的逻辑”。 第一部分:从“预科教育”到“衣橱结构” 常春藤风格的起源,植根于一战后兴起的“预科教育”(Preparatory School)体系,特别是寄宿学校对学生行为举止和外表规范的严格要求。作者首先描绘了从圣保罗、菲利普斯学院等精英预科学校向哈佛、耶鲁、普林斯顿输送人才的路径,并揭示了服装如何成为筛选和识别“圈内人”的首要标准。 这不是关于“富有”,而是关于“得体”与“不费力”(Effortless)。我们探讨了早期常春藤风格中“不修边幅的精致”这一核心矛盾。例如,为何衬衫的领子必须是软的、领尖略微敞开,而非佩戴领带?为何西装的剪裁倾向于“自然肩”和“去衬垫”(Unpadded)?这并非因为他们不懂得如何穿正式服装,而是通过对传统英式剪裁的解构,来宣告他们对僵硬教条的反叛,尽管这种反叛本身已被既有的审美规范所限定。 第二部分:战后秩序与“低调的信号” 二战的结束,标志着美国社会结构的剧烈变动。常春藤风格在战后迅速成熟,并开始扮演一种独特的社会润滑剂角色。在经济繁荣的背景下,拥有财富变得相对容易,因此,区分“老钱”(Old Money)与“新钱”(Nouveau Riche)的需求变得更为迫切。常春藤风格成为一套复杂的信号系统。 书中详细分析了从海军风格(Nautical)中汲取灵感的元素——例如斜纹布裤(Chinos)的流行,如何象征着从战时实用主义向和平年代休闲的过渡。我们考察了“预科服饰”(Prep wear)如何被常春藤学生吸收并“去光泽化”:原本用于马球或航海的昂贵羊绒衫,被穿得松垮,甚至带有轻微的磨损痕迹,这向外界传达了一个信息:“我不需要展示我的财富,因为它已是我的固有属性。” 第三部分:学术的庇护与文化的交锋 本书的重点转向了校园内部的微观文化。常春藤风格并非一成不变,它始终处于一种与学术生活的张力之中。我们考察了“学者风”(Scholarly Look)的兴起:从粗花呢外套(Tweed Jackets)到拱形金属框眼镜,这些元素如何与文学、哲学、历史等学科的阅读兴趣相绑定。 更具颠覆性的是,我们分析了五六十年代,面对激进主义和民权运动兴起时,常春藤风格所扮演的角色。它既是保守的堡垒,也是潜在变革的温床。一些学生开始故意混搭,例如将昂贵的苏格兰羊毛与廉价的卡其布或嬉皮士风格的元素并置,这反映了他们对既定精英身份的试探与质疑。本书特别关注了牛津布衬衫(OCBD)如何被反复卷起袖子,成为一种在课堂上保持专注又随时准备行动的象征。 第四部分:风格的西进与全球化渗透 在六十年代末,随着美国社会对“精英主义”的反思加深,常春藤风格开始溢出校园,向西海岸的加州文化扩散,并在日本、欧洲等地被重新阐释。我们追溯了“预科复兴”现象,探讨了商业如何将这种原本带有阶级属性的着装代码,提炼为一种可复制、可量产的商业美学。 通过对不同时代面料选择(如美利奴羊毛与人造纤维的对比)、配饰的演变(从皮质公文包到帆布背包),以及对特定运动着装(如划船或壁球服饰)的挪用,本书最终揭示了常春藤风格的持久生命力——它不是一套固定的制服,而是一套不断被重新解释的“语境框架”。 结论:一种持续的对话 《风格的诞生》超越了对服装品牌的介绍,它是一部关于美国社会权力结构、代际更替和文化身份认同的深度研究。它向读者展示了,在那些看似松弛、低调的服装背后,是如何编织着关于特权、传承、反叛与归属感的复杂叙事。这本书是献给所有对理解“穿着的意义”而非仅仅“穿什么”感兴趣的读者的重要文献。 --- 本书特色: 深度档案研究: 首次公开部分私人收藏的早期常春藤学生照片及手稿。 拒绝口号化: 避免使用“经典永恒”等陈词滥调,专注于风格背后的社会驱动力。 跨学科视角: 结合了社会学、时尚史学和美国文化研究的理论框架。 详尽的视觉注解: 丰富的插图并非简单的产品展示,而是对特定着装场景的文化情境重构。